n French restaurants all over the world, one can order the fat gray burgundy snails. But the boubbouche, as they call them in the beautiful old city of Fez, served hot or cold in delightful pottery bowls with slithers of wild acacia to eat them with are small and white.
The Arabs cook them in a highly perfumed sauce, which they say purifies the blood, gives one an appetite, and ensures no upset of the stomach in the rich dishes to follow. In fact, the bouillon is often served, on its own, as an aperitif.
First of all, you have to keep the escargots cool and dry in a perforated dish, fasting for several days. They are washed no less than seven timesthree times in fresh water, once in heavy brine, and three times again in fresh waterbefore straining.
A pot of water is put to boil, with just enough water to cover the snails. As soon as it boils, put in:
A large pinch of squalls of anises
A large pinch of caraway
Two or three pieces of licorice
A soupspoon of thyme
A small handful of green tea
A twig of sage
A twig of absinthe
A small bunch of mint
A twig of marjoram
The peel of one bitter orange
A pinch of pimento from the Sudan
Salt to taste
Stir it a little, add the escargots, cover, and let cook for at least two hours. Put the whole into a bowl to cool. Just before serving, it may be reheated. A heady dish!
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